Heather’s Easy No Weed Garden

I stopped by at Heather’s garden in late April before she planted her warm season vegetables, to see how she manages weeds and water in her garden.
Heather lives in the North End of Boise, her garden is large, dry and made of sandy, nutrient-poor soil. Tomatoes require a lot of water to produce good fruit and water is expensive and she grows a LOT of tomatoes-some years, she has planted 100 tomatoes!!
She has developed a method to minimize water usage and limit the time she spends on weeding. This is something every gardener is looking for!

Here are the timesaving things she does in her vegetable garden:
1. No tilling
2. Dig in bottomless planting pots in the ground
3. Plant the tomato in the pot.
4. Add soil, compost, fertilizers to the pot.
5. One dripper per pot. (5 gallons per hour)

Check out this short video on here gardening system that she calls, The Bucket System!

Amy’s Garden Tour with the Garden Gals

The Garden Gals got together last week and we toured Amy’s garden. She has a beautiful area to work with, the property has mature trees and a large variety of plants. The view out her back window is spectacular and I am not sure why I didn’t get a photo of it! Here are some photos of her landscaping.

The beautiful leaves of the gingko tree.

The beautiful leaves of the gingko tree.

Unlike most tree species, the ginkgo is dioecious, meaning trees are male or female. Female ginkgoes produce seeds, which are covered in a fleshy coating that contains butyric acid, also found in rancid butter and the smell can be offensive. “What died over there?” Fortunately, for Amy, she has a male ginkgo! A beautiful tree, with brilliant green leaves in the summer and a bright yellow in the fall.

Did you know, gingko trees have been known to live for 1200 years in China? That is not a typo, over a thousand years! In the US, they generally live around 100 years.

Amy has many colors of iris, and for some reason, I did not get pictures of them! I am guessing that she has about 20 different varieties.

Entryway to the house

Entryway to the house

Colorful perennials welcome the visitor to the front entry. In the winter, Amy has found the entry too sparse and so this spring she added several evergreen shrubs to fill out her planting beds.

Old, gnarled hawthorn

Old, gnarled hawthorn

I love this old gnarled bark on the hawthorn tree. It also has beautiful flowers!

Thanks, Amy for letting us visit!

Greenhouse Growing

This week I had the amazing privilege to visit a greenhouse in south Canyon County. It’s a large greenhouse with raised beds for growing food for the family.
Here are a few pictures of Teri’s greenhouse.

Strawberries in bloom

Strawberries in bloom

Large radishes, ready for the dinner table

Large radishes, ready for the dinner table

The tomatoes are 2 to 3 feet tall in the greenhouse!

The tomatoes are 2 to 3 feet tall in the greenhouse!

Dill

Dill

Chives

Chives

Garlic ready to harvest

Garlic ready to harvest

Greens for your salad

Greens for your salad

Not Your Mother’s Garden Club

This week, five ladies met and started a new garden club. This is something I have thought of for a few years – a new kind of garden club.
I wanted to be in a garden club, where we each work together at each other’s houses and then sit and chat about what is in the garden, how to improve it and to share knowledge about gardens, favorite garden books and recipes using garden produce.

The plan was that we would go to one member’s house and work for one hour and then meet to talk, share and eat. Unfortunately, our first meeting was a very rainy day and so we just briefly toured the garden and met inside, warm and dry.

Garden Gals first meeting

Garden Gals first meeting

We don’t have an official name yet, to be determined. But we are all excited about having the club over to our houses to get work together and get some great advice on what to do with problem garden areas.

Our first meeting was at Julianne’s house in SE Boise.

Hops and Rhubarb I love the chartreuse green of the hops, contrasted with the dark green rhubarb.

Hops and Rhubarb
I love the chartreuse green of the hops, contrasted with the dark green rhubarb.

Rose Arbor Pruning

Here are some pictures of a rose arbor I pruned (along with the help of 2 other ladies).
Before:

Before we started pruning

Before we started pruning

The rose arbor after we finished pruning.

The rose arbor after we finished pruning.

after

This is the second year, I have pruned this rose. The first year, it needed a lot of work and we probably hauled away a trailer full of old canes. This year, we were able to do it in half the time and we only removed a couple of the larger canes.

A climbing rose has large main canes and from each of the canes come laterals. You can see the long crazy overgrown laterals in the before picture. These were pruned to about 12 inches. In June, each of the shorter laterals should produce one or two flowers on their stems.

If you have any questions about pruning climbers, let me know!

The Lovely Juniper Hedges are GONE!

For as many years as I have lived at this house, I have wanted the junipers pulled out of the yard. People call them spider traps. They trap lots of other things, too! Our hedge was in front of our house- 60 Enormous FEET LONG! It blocked our view of the road- that’s not so bad. It blocked our view of traffic approaching as we tried to pull out of the drive way – that’s bad!
It harbored a stray cat who somehow made a tunnel through half of it. It trapped our dog cuz he was trying to chase the cat. It collected about a dozen beer cans, soda bottles, a pair of underwear, a third-grader’s homework (see the dog didn’t eat it- the junipers did!) – and more items of trash.

The funniest blog about removing detestable juniper hedges is here:

http://howtwofer.wordpress.com/2009/09/07/juniper/

Warning: You will be singing Donovan’s song, “Jennifer Juniper”, after reading it!

But, I digress…

We finally hired a neighbor to drive over with his backhoe and pull those wretched things out!

Then, he piled them in the back so we could shred them. It took 5 people 8 hours to get these junipers shredded.

Junipers ready for the shredder!

Junipers ready for the shredder!

Feeding the Shred Monster

Feeding the Shred Monster

We now have several loads of shredded bark for our shrub beds! And I have a new project to design and plant in the bare front yard. Now, I can see the traffic when I pull out of my driveway! Thank goodness!

Pickup truck full of juniper bark

Pickup truck full of juniper bark

What To Do After You Prune the Roses Without Killing the Bees and Butterflies and other Pollinators

Climbing Rose, "Blaze" climbing into a Staghorn Sumac

Climbing Rose, “Blaze” climbing into a Staghorn Sumac

After the roses are pruned, what happens next is fertilizing! I like to use a slow release fertilizer and I always add a few inches of compost around the rose. Try to keep it off of the stems. It can possibly cause damage to the stem.
I do NOT use a systemic application to my roses -like Bayer Advanced 2-1 Rose care. The active ingredient is imidacloprid and this chemical is being closely studied for its effects on bees.

Anything that might kill bees, or butterflies and other beneficial insects are not going to be applied on my property. I am a beekeeper and its hard enough keeping them alive, without adding any other potential hazards.
The University of Minnesota, Extension service reports, “Systemic neonicotinyl insecticides used on landscape plants and crops are considered as a major factor in pollinator decline.” Dr. Vera Krischik is currently studying the use of this insecticide and its relation to colony collapse disorder.

This insecticide has been banned in France and Germany and in my little corner of Idaho! I hope yours as well.

What do you use to fertilize your roses? If you have any questions, let me know.  I am happy to help you!

For more information on imidacloprid and the research being done at the University of Minnesota, see the article:

Imidacloprid, Found in Most Homeowner Insecticides, is Translocated to Nectar and Pollen and Kills Good Bugs

Here is the link:

http://blog.lib.umn.edu/efans/ygnews/2010/08/imidacloprid-found-in-most-hom.html

 

Bees entering the hive

Bees entering the hive

Honey bee bathing in fresh pollen

Honey bee bathing in fresh pollen

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Mister Lincoln Rose Pruning

I LOVE rose pruning! I am not sure why. Maybe because I have pruned so many, that I find it easy to do. I don’t have to deliberate much on the job, I just get at it. One thing I have learned after pruning thousands of roses- it is pretty darn hard to kill a rose! There are so many ways to prune. You can be the perfectionist and get the cut at just the right angle and look for the 5 leaf cluster. . . or you can just get at it. In one month, it is doubtful you will be able to tell the difference between a rose pruned “perfectly” and a rose just cut for height.

My ONLY pet peeve though, is people who leave a lot of dead stumps at the bottom of the rose. Use a saw for pete’s sake!! They look so much nicer without all that dead wood on the bottom.

I have a beautiful Mister Lincoln rose, a hybrid tea. It is about 5 years old and I have allowed it to get really tall over the years.
Here is a picture of it this spring. The books say it is generally 4 to 8 feet tall. Mine is about 6 feet tall.

Mister Lincoln about 6 feet tall.

Mister Lincoln about 6 feet tall.

I decided to prune it a bit shorter this year and so, I cut it down to about 3 feet.

Done Pruning Mister Lincoln

Done Pruning Mister Lincoln


I did find some evidence of rose cane borer.
Rose cane borer

Rose cane borer


The cane borer does not mean the ruin of your rose. In fact, sometimes I don’t even cut off the hollowed out cane. I did cut down below the borer on this cane.

Here is a trusted reference- the Arizona Cooperative Extension- for more detailed information on roses and maintenance in the landscape.
http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1528.pdf

Do you have some questions on rose pruning?
Any pet peeves about how people prune or don’t prune their roses? Let me know in the comment section below.
Thanks!

Rose Pruning

Double Delight Rose- a favorite because it is beautiful and fragrant!

Double Delight Rose- a favorite because it is beautiful and fragrant!

In Idaho, it has been said, that when the forsythia blooms, it is time to prune the roses. But, there is NO rush! I like to wait a couple of weeks after the forsythia blooms, because you never know when you are going to get a few more cold evenings that could frost the new growth. But, even if you did prune early and we did see a few nights below 32 degrees, it is not going to kill the rose. Just cut off any frost damage that may have occurred on the tips of the roses. Roses are very resilient.

Mister Lincoln rose, beautiful and fragrant.

Mister Lincoln rose, beautiful and fragrant.

Here are a few guidelines for pruning roses in Idaho:

    1.Sharpen your tools
    2.DISINFECT your tools
    3.DISINFECT your tools
    4.Rake up all rose refuse and throw it away. DO NOT compost anything from a rose plant.
    5.Use hand pruners for small branches, on larger branches use a loppers, on the largest canes use a hand saw. Don’t try and cut a cane with brute strength and a tool that is too small for the job. You’ll end up crushing the cane and having to make a new lower cut.

I say disinfect twice because it is so important. Roses in SW Idaho have been hit hard by Bacterial Cane Blight. You will know your roses have it if the canes are black or purple.

Here is an excerpt from the University of Idaho publication by S.K. Mohan and V.P. Bijman

An aggressive cane blight has been observed in the Treasure Valley of Idaho since 1996. Symptoms were commonly under cool, wet conditions in spring (March to May) and the level of incidence and severity of the disease varied from year to year. Several cultivars of climbing, floribunda, grandiflora, hybrid tea, hybrid perpetual, miniature and shrub roses can show severe symptoms.

Symptoms The symptoms usually started at the base of a vegetative bud or at leaf scars or wounds, as reddish-brown areas on the bark that later turn dark purple to black and necrotic. The necrotic areas expanded around and along the cane, often involving a major part or even the entire cane. Vegetative buds on the affected parts of the cane turned brown and dried. The surface of the necrotic areas of the bark was glossy, and the tissue beneath the epidermis was brown to dark brown, and moist in the early stages. Often confused with winter injury.

Cultural control The following is suggested in the absence of specific research to control this problem.

· Remove and destroy infected stems.

· Disinfect pruning shears before cutting more stems.”